Knitting is a process by which needles are used to form one or more yarns into a series of interlocking loops. Knitted garments are desirable because they do not wrinkle easily, will contour to the body, and possess excellent insulating qualities. Knitted fabrics can be made of any fiber or fiber blend, and are used extensively in sweaters, dresses, slacks, jackets, and in a variety of garments for both men and women.

The unstable shape of the knitted stitch can result in the loss of shape and dimensions in many knitted garments. This problem may be due to the type of knitted construction, the type of fiber or yarn, as well as the type of stabilization or pre-shrinkage treatment used by the manufacturer.

Some of the problems associated with knitted garments are:

1.      The stretching and distortion due to the loosely knitted construction of the garment.

2.      The use of dimensionally unstable thermoplastic yarns (such as acrylic) that will cause the stretching of the garment from mechanical action (drum rotation) as well as from  the heat generated during the reclamation or drying cycles.

3.      The pilling of the yarns caused by the breakage of the fibers that is the result of abrasion

4.   The shrinkage of the fabric that is the result of a defective pre-shrinkage treatment.     

5.      The “felting” (the hardening and compression) of woolen yarns caused by their exposure to water or excessive heat.

6.      The snagging of the fabric due to the loosely twisted yarns and open or loose construction. This is very common on chenille knitted fabrics.

7.      The shrinkage of soft woolen specialty knits (such as cashmere, mohair, and angora).

         
Inspect knitted garments at the so that any pre-existing damage can be detected. Examine the garment for snags and pulled yarns. Examine wool and silk knits for moth and insect damage. Inspect the areas of the garment that are subject to tension and pulling including seam areas where runs and pulled yarns may occur. Examine the garment for uneven hemlines, especially on a garment that contains a bias cut construction. Puckering that results from stretching or shrinkage may be visible in the seamed areas of knitted garments. Pre-measure knitted garments so that they can be blocked back to size after processing.

Whether drycleaned or wetcleaned, knitted garments should be turned inside out and placed in a net bag in order to prevent mechanical damage such as pilling, snagging, stretching and shrinkage. This practice is especially important when processing specialty knits that contain chenille yarns or with soft woolen yarns such as cashmere, angora, and mohair. When drycleaning knitted fabrics, use a fragile program that reduces cycle time and mechanical action. Reclaim at the minimum temperatures that are required for your type of solvent. It is possible to successfully wetclean many types of knitted fabrics, if you have fully programmable settings on your wetcleaning machine and dryer. Many types of knitted garments (especially those that contain acrylic) must be “hand washed” and laid flat to dry. Refer to the garment’s care label for processing instructions.

Whether you charge for the de-pilling of knitted garments or include the added labor into your price, knitted garments must be free of pills prior to the blocking of the garment. Knitted garments should either be folded over a strut type of hanger or folded and placed in a sweater bag. Never hang a knitted garment by its shoulders, since it may stretch while hanging (this is known as “growth”).